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Lucas Kandia's avatar

We just came back from a trip to Argentina. My eyes and ears were open, listening and looking for signs of what a 99% inflation rate might mean for the country. What would it look like? Derelict buildings? Burned out vehicles blocking streets? No public transportation? Hordes of people begging for food?

Hardly.

The trip from the airport by taxi to our Airbnb in the upscale district of Palermo in Buenos Aires went past a lot of buildings that were in need of maintenance. For sure. But nothing resembling the backdrop of the Walking Dead series. People were having picnics in parks alongside the freeway. Interesting, but nothing world ending. Fare? Was about 5,000 Pesos. Or $25 USD. For a 30 min cab ride. Traffic as normal as any big city. A little more chaotic, but nothing crazy.

The AirBNB was in wonderfully treed neighborhood, across from a coffee shop that was doing brisk business, both inside and outside on its street patio. The apartment we rented was found behind a massive door that led to a courtyard that was kept spotless by a middle aged lady, who was the caretaker. The amenities were humble, but had everything we normally find in AirBNBs. Including a/c, running hot and cold water and a comfortable bed.

If you were to walk down Florida St., in the heart of downtown Buenos Aires shopping district, you could mistake the area for any upscale shopping district anywhere in the world. While the poverty was evident here and there with the odd homeless person sleeping in a doorway, upscale shops were open everywhere. Prices of course, were geared towards tourists. Definitely not locals, as a typical Argentinian (according to Google) makes $450 USD a year (or $157,000 Pesos). And a purse that my wife purchased was $75 USD. A deal for her. One sixth of an annual salary for a local.

The prevalent word on the street, "Cambio," was everywhere. Every 20 or 30ft. "Cambio, cambio, cambio" or Currency exchange in English. Even if you had no skills, you could say that word. Then with tourist in tow, take the person to the Exchange booth where you would get a cut of the proceeds. If you exchanged a crisp $100USD, you got $370 pesos for $1USD. If you used $50 or $20, you got 350 or 320 Pesos per USD. No ripped or marked bills. The entire exchange process felt like we were doing something illegal as the person doing the exchange did so behind a one way mirror. While the government does not encourage using USD for goods and services, it does look the other way.

Buses were running. As was the subway. We took a hop on/hop off tour for $50 USD for 2 people and rode the bus around the town. Absolutely stunning, especially the parks, where we saw people doing roller blading???, outdoor zoomba classes, running, biking and just enjoying life.

The restaurants were amazing. Food in touristy areas was still affordable. In tourist traps, you were paying US prices. If you ate off the main strips, you ate like a king and paid like a pauper.

That was Buenos Aires. If you travelled into Patagonia, which we did, the people only became friendlier (if that was possible), and more humble. And the vistas to explore, were unlike anywhere else in the world.

PGV, sell his ranch? Why in the world would he do that? He is tucked away into some of the most desolate but beautiful world, that is far away from everything were s*it to hit the proverbial fan. Plus he is actually creating and adding something of value to the world. In a place that time has forgotten. The originarios will eventually adapt to Bill, as Bill brings more value to the area and their lives. Otherwise, they would have scorched the ranch in his absence. They know it, and so does he.

Do they want something? Yes. Does Bill know what that is? Doesn't appear so. However, one day, the communication channels will open. Until then, its a waiting game for Bill and his family.

He is heaven sent to those that he employs, and to the people that get to enjoy the fruits of his and his employees' labor. May he flourish and be well.

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𝐓𝐢𝐦 𝐁𝐚𝐥𝐝𝐰𝐢𝐧's avatar

DolarHoy.com is an interesting website (when translated into English by Google). I learned that in Argentina there is a Blue Dollar, a Dollar Currency, an Official Dollar, a Solidarity Dollar, a MEP Dollar, a CCL Dollar, a Tourist Dollar, and, not to be left out, a Crypto Dollar! Each seems to have its own exchange rate with the Peso. Bill and Joel, how do you manage this? Maybe that's why those folks were drinking all that Malbec at the restaurant!

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